What is an insulated door vs. a thermal insulated door?
In the door industry just about everyone has an insulated door. The most common being a metal pan style door with polystyrene insulation inside and some sort of cover, metal or vinyl over the inside, depending on the grade of door offered.
This is “the insulated” door. It usually does not have a thermal break to keep the outer face from connecting with inner face, called thermal bridging, which allows the inner face to become the same temperature as the outer face. In other words it conducts the cold or the heat to the inner surface of the door and really doesn’t do much for insulating your building.
There is usually no weather-stripping between the sections, or some manufacturers will put one piece at each joint which will help to keep some of the air leakage down. The air leakage on an insulated door is as important, if not more important then the R-value. If the door leaks air it is like leaving a window open. Most companies do not list the air infiltration on a residential and some not even on the commercial.
As you can see from the above information, the “normal” insulated door that is made with polystyrene does a lot more for “sound dreading” than it does for keeping the cold or hot out of your building. And if you are planning on heating the area or you have living space above, this could be a major concern prior to making your final choice.
A “Thermal Insulated Door” is what most people are really looking for, but rarely know it (because of the marketing used in the industry), if they will heat the building, have a special usage, or if there is living space above the area behind the door.
The “Thermal Door” is constructed with polyurethane type insulation, which is much more dense than styrene and it fills all voids in the door. There is a “full” thermal break around the entire section perimeter. This means that the outer surface can maintain different temperatures and do the job that this insulated thermal door was designed to do.
Also, this type of door will definitely have weather-stripping at each section joint and the ones with the least air infiltration will have a strip at the top of each section and at the bottom also, so that when the sections come together it is seal to seal at every joint in the door (Garaga). This is the tightest door possible for keeping the cold or heat out or in.
The Garaga products have the lowest air infiltration ratings in the industry. It comes out at less than 2/10ths of a cubic foot of infiltration per minute with an outside wind against the door of 24mph. The next best rating that is available is 8/10ths @ 15mph (4 times the leakage at only about 2/3 of the wind). This shows you what the dual seal at the joint does vs. the single seal.
Basic Garage Door Repair
As many home robberies occur either in the garage or through the garage, a broken garage door can be a big welcome sign to crime. This is why it is so important to keep your garage door in good working condition, which includes attending to all repairs as soon as possible. Below are some common garage door problems and repair solutions:
Problem: The garage door won’t open or close.
Solution: If your garage door won’t open or close and you’ve got an electric opener, check your keypad first and find out if your opener is functioning. You might need to have the opener reprogrammed.
Problem: The garage door sticks when opening or closing.
Solution: If the garage door sticks, the metal rollers and hinges probably need lubricating. The tracks may also be dirty, clogged or out of alignment.
Problem: When the garage door is released, it falls.
Solution: When a garage door is released it should remain in position if it’s in good shape. If it falls, odds are the extension springs are worn and should be replaced.
Problem: The garage door opens on its own.
Solution: If a garage door opens entirely on its own, the extension springs are too strong and should be replaced with lighter ones.